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The process of felt making

Felt making is a very ancient craft and dates back to the beginnings of civilisation. Wool fibres are felted using moisture, friction and heat. As the wool shrinks the fibres interlock and mat together. Many people will have found felting by accident. If a wool sweater is washed too hot in a washing machine that agitates vigorously, it will shrink and felt.

Fleece from different sheep breeds has characteristics that vary and effect the ability of the fibres to felt. Felting ability is dependant mainly upon the length, thickness or quality and the "crimp" or waviness of the "staple" or single fibre. The fleece is first "scoured" or washed. After drying the fleece is "carded" or combed, this teases out and separates the fibres forming a continuos soft untwisted rope that can be used for felt making. A further carding process removes the shorter fibres, the remaining long, parallel well separated fibres are known as "tops". Good quality tops felt most easily. This collection contains works made from both fleece and tops.

I have used two felting methods, needle felting and traditional hand rolling. Hand rolling is very versatile as a wide range of qualities, densities and finished can be obtained. The fibres are layered in an area of chosen size and shape called a "batt", upon a bamboo mat. The batt is then wetted with soapy water and rolled in the mat. The batt must be carefully turned, rolled and measured regularly. When the desired shrinkage and density is achieved, the piece is rinsed to remove the soap, dried and pressed.

Surface design may be added either at the laying out batt stage, later when the fibres are partially felted, or applied afterwards as appliqué or embroidery. This depends upon the desired effect or quality of the work that is sought. Surface design can be other wool fibres, pieces cut or pulled from partially felted wool, or a wide variety of yarns. I like to use natural fibres of silk, cotton, hemp and wool. Knitted and woven fabrics can also be incorporated.

"Nuno" felt is produced by using a fine woven cloth to apply wool fibres upon. As the wool shrinks it takes the cloth with it, resulting in a crinkle effect. "Cobweb" felt is made by laying out a very fine batt and pulling the fibres during the felting process so that holes or a web effect is formed. Many other techniques are used to produce a variety of weights, decorative finishes and uses.

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